Great question, and I’ll get straight to it: if you’re serious about stillwater fishing, your leader setup does matter. That said, it doesn’t have to be overly complicated. Here’s why a standard river leader isn’t always ideal in lakes, and what you can do to improve your setup:

• Tapered leaders can work… but they’re not ideal. In rivers, you want a tapered leader to help turn the fly over and land gently. In lakes, that taper actually works against you—because the thicker butt section creates unnecessary drag, slowing your flies’ descent and making depth control harder. A straight, level leader is often a better choice.
• Depth is everything. Unlike rivers, where fish hold in current seams, stillwater trout move throughout the water column. You need a leader that lets your flies sink efficiently and stay in the right zone. A 10- to 15-foot level fluorocarbon leader (often starting at 2X or 3X and stepping down) will help your flies get down faster and stay there.
• Indicator rigs need a different setup. If you’re fishing chironomids under an indicator, a long, level leader is a must. Instead of a 9-foot tapered leader, think 12-18 feet of straight fluorocarbon, adjusted based on depth. This allows your flies to suspend more naturally.
• For sinking lines, short leaders are key. When using an intermediate or full sinking line, ditch the long leader altogether. A short 3- to 5-foot leader of straight fluorocarbon (around 2X or 3X) keeps your fly moving naturally with the line and prevents unnecessary slack.

So, do you have to switch leaders for stillwater? No—but if you want to fish lakes effectively, making a few adjustments will help you get more eats. Tight lines!